Sizing Calculator
Enter your lamp measurements and we'll give you the right shade dimensions.
β¨ Your Recommended Shade Dimensions
Style Matcher
Select your room's vibe β get specific shade recommendations.
Pre-Purchase Checklist
Don't leave for the store (or click buy) until you've checked every box.
π Measurements
π§ Hardware & Fit
π¨ Style & Light
π Before You Buy
Lampshade School
Everything you never knew you needed to know about lampshades.
πΊ Shade Shapes Glossary
Drum: Straight-sided cylinder, same top and bottom diameter. Gives a modern, clean look. Works with contemporary and mid-century bases.
Empire: Classic tapered shape. Narrow at top, wide at bottom. The most versatile shape, works with almost any base. Great for traditional rooms.
Bell: Flared at the bottom like a bell. More decorative and feminine. Beautiful with ornate or ceramic bases.
Coolie / Conical: Wide, shallow cone shape. Creates a broad spread of light and feels architectural. Best for ambient lighting situations.
Oval / Rectangular: Follows the footprint of the base shape. Use when your base is rectangular or has a strong directional shape.
Hexagonal / Geometric: Faceted, statement-making shapes. Best as accent lamps where the shade is part of the design story.
π§ Fitter Types Explained
The fitter is the hardware connection between your shade and your lamp. Getting this wrong = the shade doesn't fit at all.
| Fitter Type | How it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Spider | Metal spider frame sits on the harp, secured by a finial | Most table & floor lamps with harps |
| Clip-on | Clips directly onto the light bulb | Small accent lamps, candelabra bulbs |
| UNO | Shade attaches to a threaded socket, no harp required | Swing-arm lamps, pharmacy lamps |
| Washer | Flat ring sits directly on a bulb adapter (no harp) | European fixtures, certain floor lamps |
Tip: If you're not sure, look inside your shade at the top ring β the hardware type will be obvious once you know what you're looking for.
𧡠Materials & Light Quality
Linen / Fabric: Creates a soft, diffused, warm glow. The gold standard for ambient and bedroom lighting. Off-white linen with a warm bulb = cozy perfection.
Paper / Rice Paper: Very clean, even light distribution. Works beautifully in modern and Japanese-inspired spaces. Fragile. Not good for high-traffic areas.
Silk: Luxurious, slightly translucent. Gives a sophisticated glow. Pairs best with crystal or formal bases.
Metal: Opaque: directs all light down or up. Great for task lighting or dramatic accent. No ambient glow from the sides.
Rattan / Wicker: Casts beautiful dappled shadow patterns on the ceiling and walls. Purely decorative. Not great for task lighting.
Glass: Elegant and statement-making. Can be translucent or etched. Creates a glow that feels more like a fixture than a traditional shade.
π "Why Does My Lamp Look Off?"
The shade is too small: Bottom diameter should be roughly 2Γ the widest part of the base. A tiny shade on a big base looks pinched and awkward.
The shade is too tall: Shade height should be about 60β70% of the base height. Too tall and it overwhelms; too short and it looks like a hat.
The lamp looks top-heavy: Your harp is probably too long, raising the shade too high. Try a shorter harp (they're swappable).
The light looks yellow and dingy: A pure-white shade with a warm LED amplifies the yellowness. Switch to an off-white or cream shade, or use a daylight bulb.
The shade keeps tilting: Your spider fitter ring isn't sitting level on the harp saddle. Bend the spider arms slightly for a level fit.
The shade looks cheap despite being expensive: The shade and base are competing aesthetically. When in doubt, let one be the star: subdued base + statement shade, or statement base + simple shade.
